For example, 4Layer. Click on the ADD button. Eagle will ask you to name the new section you are creating. Click OK when done. Now select the appropriate layer for this section. Create a new section for every new layer needed. Repeat step 7, 8, 9 and 10 for every new layer. After designing your circuit through software applications like the ULTIUM Designer, these are the files generated to store information that can guide to create circuit boards.
Though designing engineers can be comfortable sharing data in their PCB format, as it is easy to comprehend; manufacturers of PCBs might require additional guidelines on factors like drilling.
These parameters may hinder successful WellPCB. Wn e will provide you with one-stop service and high-quality products. You can send us the documents you need to make and get a quote immediately! What are we waiting for? We have ten years of PCB manufacturing if unchecked.
Now, not long ago, the process of creating a Gerber file that could precisely present your circuit idea for WellPCB. We have ten years of PCB manufacturing was often a challenging task. This challenge would often be followed by the common problem of missing lists like the aperture list or tools list.
And then, the challenge of compatibility within CAM software applications would make this task way too hard. With time, however, this process has been highly streamlined. Thanks to the advancements made in CAM software applications and file representation like Gerber; developers and designers can now fabricate PCBs from fabrication datasets. For Gerber to improve, there must be an increased demand for improved electronics. You see it? Do you notice a funny loop?
That is why the future of electronics is likely to be filled with Gerber files on ends. Besides learning on your own, what other things can you do? Perhaps after reading through our guide, you might have developed some interest in knowing more about Gerber files and PCBs.
Feel free to check through our official website and peruse through our collection of tricks that can transform you from a beginner to a pro.
Also, just in case you succeed to make a custom PCB for your project, feel free to make an invoice from us at a freaking bargain. Wn e will be glad to offer you a helping hand in beginning your Gerber journey.
File Upload. Submit Form. Home - Blog. Detergent and warm water will do the trick. Finally to remove oxidation and create a surface that will accept the transfer and be easy to solder, I sprinkle the copper with a little "Bar Keepers Friend" compound and scrub gently with a damp sponge, then rinse before drying with a paper towel.
If the boards are 2-sided, the images will need to be registered exactly. I found the best way for me is to temperarely glue a plain paper copy of the bottom copper image to one side of the board paradoxically this will be the top and carefully drill the centers of the registration vias with a 70 drill. A drill press with a drill vice to hold the bit works well. For single sided boards the process is fairly simple. Just cut out a copy of the copper image from the glossy paper and gently tape it to the board image side down using painters tape blue tape.
I then place the board on a piece of plywood covered with 2 layers of paper toweling and cover the board with another two layers. For two sided boards the process is more complicated. I first clear the registration holes in the board with a straight pin. The next step is to cut out one copper top and one bottom image from the glossy paper and exactly pierce the center of all the registration holes with a straight pin. I pass this wire first through the back of one of the registration holes in the top paper, then through the board.
At this point I bend the wire and use a small piece of painters tape to prevent the wire from dropping through when I flip the board over. Finally push it through the front of the bottom paper holes so that the images are facing the copper. Each wire is then bent to hold the papers and board together.
When all the holes are completed, follow the procedure for the single sided board above. Now that the board is ready for the toner transfer. This video of the transfer process may make the following instructions clearer. I apply a dry clothes Iron set to just under the highest temperature to tack down the paper to the board using the pointed tip of the iron. Be careful to place the tip between the wires on two-sided boards and tack down both sides so that the paper does not separate from the board when handled.
Warning the board gets burning hot. On two sided boards I snip the wires flush on one side then pull the other ends through the paper and board before the next step. Remove any tape before applying the iron with pressure on each side for about 1 minute no movement unless the board is to big for full iron coverage. This will heat soak the board and tack on the toner. To assure toner transfer I remove the paper towel on the top side and hold the edge of the iron at a 45 degree angle to the board then apply pressure while moving across the board.
I do this on each side at least several times. At this point you should see a slight image of the toner on the back of the paper. The next step is to soak the board and paper in water till the paper floats off.
I usually gently rub the back of the paper to remove the clay coating to facilitate the process and gently peel the paper off after a few minutes, A light brushing under water with a soft bristle brush or your fingers will insure the clay coating of the glossy paper is removed from the copper before etching.
The water will cloud-up with microscopic clay particles. Dry, inspect and touch-up with a Sharpee Marker and knife if needed. If extensive repair is needed at this stage you might want to remove the toner and reapply before etching be sure to clean the board again. My etching process is perhaps the most unconventional. The next unusual step is to etch the board inside a good quality freezer bag with a zip lock.
Add the acid to the chloride. This is the Edinburgh etch. The etching solution is twice as fast as plain Ferric Chloride etch and will not self clog or form the sludge.
It generates Hydrogen gas that is explosively flammable and will burst the bag open. Be sure to use gloves and clothing protection a waterproof apron before mixing or using the etchant. It will still stain and eat cloth and skin! Open the bag with the circuit board, I usually add water to the bag first to test for leaks then dump that water out. Add etchant sufficient to etch your circuit, do not overfill, you can always add more later but, it can be messy. You will find that you will use less etchant than with other methods and since it is discarded after use, the etchant is always fresh.
Squeeze as much air as possible out of the bag without spillage then the securely seal it closed so it is air tight. Turn off the crock pot. Now place the bag in the hot water till the board is submerged and flat. Check on the progress of the etching at least every 5 minutes till all the exposed copper is completely cleared the clear bag allows inspection. Viewed 6k times. Add a comment. Active Oldest Votes.
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